Royal Fizz

Royal Fizz
The Juice of 1/2 Lemon. (Juice 1/2 Meyer Lemon, Juice 1/2 Lime)
1/2 Tablespoonful Powdered Sugar. (1 TBSP Rich Simple Syrup)
1 Glass Gin. (2 oz Junipero Gin)
1 Egg. (1 Egg)
Shake well, strain into medium size glass and fill with syphon soda water.

Yet another Fizz from Hugo Ensslin’s 1916 “Recipes for Mixed Drinks”, about this Fizz he says, “Made same as plain Gin Fizz, adding the whole of one Egg.”

I do think a whole egg is a little much, with modern eggs as large as they are. Suggest hunting down “Medium” eggs or even just using half a Large or Extra-Large Egg.

Like cream drinks, whole egg drinks sometimes draw the askance look from those perusing the book.

Personally, I like Flips and their Citrus laden brethern, the Egg Sour and Royal Fizz. Heck, even the ones with just Egg Yolks, like the Bosom Caresser are kind of nice.

Well, as they say, your mileage may vary.

This post is one in a series documenting my ongoing effort to make all of the drinks in the Savoy Cocktail Book, starting at the first, Abbey, and ending at the last, the, uh, Sauterne Cup.

Derby Fizz

Derby Fizz
5 Dashes Lemon Juice. (Generous squeeze Lemon Juice)
1 Teaspoonful of Powdered Sugar. (1 teaspoon of Caster Sugar)
1 Egg.
1 Glass Canadian Club or Scotch Whisky. (2 oz Highland Park 8 Year, the MacPhail’s Collection)
3 Dashes Curacao. (1 teaspoon Clement Creole Shrubb)
Shake well, strain into medium size glass and fill with soda water.

Clearly, I am going to catch Scotch whisky nerd hell for making this drink with the 8 year Highland Park Whisky from The MacPhail’s Collection. However, the only blended Scotch whisky I have is the Famous Grouse, and, as far as I can tell, you might as well use vodka as Famous Grouse.

Anyway, this is the youngest Single Malt I have in the house, and not a particularly expensive dram, either. But I do like it. It has a lot of the same character as the Highland Park 12, but with a little less polish and a lot more youthful vigor. I usually drink it with some water, as it is, so a cocktail didn’t seem like much of a stretch.

I have to admit, though, I’m on the fence whether the Highland Park was wasted in the Derby Fizz. Definitely, with a whole egg and soda water, any less assertive Scotch wouldn’t have had much impact at all.

Also, this is not a particularly sour Fizz, basically April’s Egg Sour with a splash of soda, and, as such, I think that serves featuring the whiskey well.

Still, the drink ends up being a little rich for my taste, at least for early evening drinking. Though, it might be a way to get your protein at Breakfast without having to choke down some god awful over-cheesed omelet and mushy hash browns. Cup of coffee on the side and you’ve got a nice peaty, smoky liquid Brunch. Just be glad I didn’t garnish the Derby Fizz with a strip of bacon…

This post is one in a series documenting my ongoing effort to make all of the drinks in the Savoy Cocktail Book, starting at the first, Abbey, and ending at the last, the, uh, Sauterne Cup.

General Harrison’s Egg Nogg

First, just a reminder that Sunday, May 22, 2011, is our monthly exercise in folly, Savoy Cocktail Book Night at Alembic Bar. If any of the cocktails, (they also have a great beer selection,) on this blog have captured your fancy, stop by after 6 and allow the skilled bartenders, (and me,) to make them for you. It is always a fun time.

General Harrison’s Egg Nogg
1 Egg. (1 Egg)
1 1/2 Teaspoonsful of Sugar. (1 1/2 Teaspoon Caster Sugar)
2 or 3 Small Lumps of Ice.
Fill the tumbler with Cider (4 oz Astarbe Natural Basque Cider), and shake well.

This is a splendid drink, and is very popular on the Mississippi river. It was the favourite beverage of William Henry Harrison, ninth President of the United States of America.

First off, and let’s get this out of the way, this isn’t Egg Nogg. As far as I am concerned, and no disrespect to the General, this a Cider Flip. Period.

Second, most modern American Hard Cider is awful. Most of them are sweet, vaguely alcoholic, highly carbonated, compounded beverages more closely resembling Zima or Wine Coolers than actual Cider.

William Henry Harrison lived from 1773 to 1841, he would not have recognized these beverages as Hard Cider, or even something fit for adult consumption.

When we talk about the nature of historical ingredients, we rarely talk about the obvious stuff.

The fact is, until relatively recently, fermentation was poorly understood. I mean, people understood the end result and they understood how to control the process, but they really did not understand that it was a specific organism that was consuming the sugars and producing the alcohol. Yeast was pretty much a mystery. This means most fermentation was done using things similar to sourdough starters. This also means most beer was probably sour and most wine far less predictably delightful. The industrialization of these industries just hadn’t happened in the 18th and 19th Centuries.

Likewise, Hard Cider was not inoculated with specific, delightful strains of yeast, it was just fermented with whatever wild yeasts and bacterias were in the air and on the fruit wherever it was being made. Hardly anybody does this anymore, because the results are not really predictable and the beverage you get on the other end may more closely resemble a tart Lambic Ale than an Apple Soda.

It is also worth noting, that opposed to the mild, juicy apples that are often now used to make Hard Cider and Apple Juice, the apples traditionally used to make cider were those you couldn’t eat out of hand. If you talk to someone who makes Calvados, another old, old tradition, they will tell you the only thing the many apple varieties used to make that beverage have in common are that they are small, ugly, and bitter.

So I was contemplating this, wondering if there was some cider I could find that would make sense to use in General Harrison’s Egg Nogg.

Over the past year or two, I’ve become a bit obsessed with naturally fermented beer and wine. I really like the unusual flavors you find in these beverages. I’d tried some more unusual beers and had some Natural wines which really made me perk up and take notice of things that stood outside of my frame of reference for fermented beverages.

One day, when I was visiting with Carl Sutton (of Sutton Cellars), he’d pulled out some Spanish Cider which blew me away. Not only did it have unusual flavors I didn’t associate with Cider, it also had a bracing acidity, that helped me to categorize many of the funky flavors I’d found in Calvados.

When we traveled to Spain last year, I made it my personal goal to try as many Natural Ciders as I could find while we traveled through the Basque and the Asturian regions of Spain. Well, after a couple bottles, none of my traveling companions really shared this enthusiasm. Tart, dry, funky and fairly alcoholic, they soon substituted Wine for the Cider I was drinking.

However, Spanish Cider makes complete sense as the type of Hard Cider someone would have been drinking in the late part of the 18th Century and early part of the 19th, and it makes total sense in the Harrison’s Egg Nogg. The acidity makes that amount of sugar sensible, the funkiness stands up against the egg, and the fact that it is barely carbonated makes it almost possible to shake the drinks without having it explode all over your kitchen or bar.

Forgot to turn on the music today before making the video. Note to self, feed the cats before making videos.

Safety Note: As with any recipe containing uncooked eggs, there is some small chance of salmonella. If that risk bothers you, use pasteurized eggs.

Finding Basque Cider: I got this Astarbe Cider at Healthy Spirits. When talking to them, they asked me to let them know what I thought. He’d gotten it a while ago, excited to find any Basque Cider available in the US. However, it really hadn’t sold very well. Personally, I had a hard time telling them that, yes, they should carry Basque Cider, when they have sold less than a case over what looks like about 5 years. If you disagree, let them know, as there’s only one bottle left. If that last bottle gets sold, and you still want to try Spanish Cider, K&L Wines does carry a Spanish and a Basque Cider.

This post is one in a series documenting my ongoing effort to make all of the drinks in the Savoy Cocktail Book, starting at the first, Abbey, and ending at the last, the, uh, Sauterne Cup.

Breakfast Egg Nogg

Breakfast Egg Nogg
1 Fresh Egg.
1/4 Curacao. (1/2 oz Clement Creole Shrubb Liqueur)
3/4 Brandy. (1 1/2 oz Osocalis Fine Alambic Brandy)
1/4 Pint Fresh Milk. (4 oz Meyenberg Goat’s Milk)
Shake well and strain into long tumbler. Grate nutmeg on top.

Continuing with the out of season Noggs, we have another example, this one with a slightly unusual sweetener, Orange Curacao.

Though I am unclear about exactly why sweetening with Orange Liqueur instead of Sugar makes this appropriate for breakfast.

The implication of Vitamin C?

Nothing wrong with the Breakfast Nogg, but my favorite remains the Baltimore Egg Nogg.

Safety Note: As with any recipe containing uncooked eggs, there is some small chance of salmonella. If that risk bothers you, use pasteurized eggs.

This post is one in a series documenting my ongoing effort to make all of the drinks in the Savoy Cocktail Book, starting at the first, Abbey, and ending at the last, the, uh, Sauterne Cup.

Baltimore Egg Nogg

Baltimore Egg Nogg
1 Fresh Egg.
1/2 Tablespoonful Sugar. (1/2 tablespoon Caster Sugar)
1/4 Glass Brandy. (1/2 oz Osocalis Fine Alambic Brandy)
1/4 Glass Jamaica Rum. (1/2 oz Smith & Cross Jamaican Rum)
1/2 Glass Madeira. (1 oz Cossart and Gordon 5 Year Bual Madeira)
1/2 Pint Fresh Milk. (4 oz (I am cheating) Goats Milk)
Shake well and strain into long tumbler. Grate nutmeg on top.

I like to pretend that I have some sort of insight into the Savoy Cocktail Book, but it is a big book. I had been ignoring most of the back of the book until relatively recently. Janiece Gonzalez found this recipe and started making the Baltimore Egg Nog for people about a year ago after a couple Savoy nights. It totally caught me by surprise. Maybe my favorite egg nogg ever and has been really popular with whomever we have made it for.

If there is any trick to it, it is to go with a Madeira with some character, not that bullshit “Rainwater” Madeira. Well, that and a flavorful and funky Jamaican Rum, like the Smith & Cross.

Yes, I once again display a brazen disregard for personal safety, by cracking ice with a chef’s knife. I do have an ice pick, but it scares me. I don’t really know how to use it and feel fairly certain that the first time I tried it, I would have it sticking in my palm. So I use the knife I am comfortable with to crack ice. Your Mileage May Vary. In deference to Frederic’s good point and Chris’ squeamishness, I promise not to show this technique in any future videos.

Regarding safety: Clearly, holding ice cubes in your hand and cracking them with a 6 inch chef’s knife isn’t really, uh, wise? Don’t do that. Or if you do, don’t say you saw me do it here. You can, however, blame Andrew Bohrer, who showed me this technique. Also, as with any recipe containing uncooked eggs, there is some small chance of salmonella. If that risk bothers you, use pasteurized eggs.

Music is from the Dodos new CD, “No Color”.

This post is one in a series documenting my ongoing effort to make all of the drinks in the Savoy Cocktail Book, starting at the first, Abbey, and ending at the last, the, uh, Sauterne Cup.

Egg Nogg

Egg Noggs.

The Egg Nogg is essentially an American Beverage, although it has been appreciated throughout the world for many years. Its introduction throughout Christmas time in the Southern States of America is traditional. In Scotland it is known as “Auld Man’s Milk.”

Egg Nogg
1 Egg.
1 Tablespoonful Powdered Sugar. (Generous Teaspoon Caster Sugar)
1 Glass of any Spirit desired. (2 oz Banks 5 Island Rum)
Fill glass with Milk. (2 oz Meyerberg Goats’ Milk)
Shake well and strain into long tumbler. Grate a little nutmeg on top.

So, if a “Flip” is a Toddy (or Sling) plus an Egg, Egg Nogg is a Cold Toddy (or Sling) plus an egg and a good amount of Milk. Served Hot, Egg Nogg is a Tom and Jerry. Generally, you’ll see these with 1 to 2 (or more) times the Milk as the amount of spirits included. I try not to drink Cows Milk, so I am using equal parts Goats Milk to the Spirits.

Initially I was hoping to split the Spirits between the Banks 5 Island Rum and Barbancourt 5. Sadly, a miscalculation resulted in 2 oz of Banks 5 Island being poured into the mixing tin. Damn it! Well, I can’t say I was entirely pleased, as much as I like Banks 5 Island, I was really looking forward to a bit more of the aged rum taste.

To be honest, Barbancourt 5 Star is about my favorite rum for Egg Nogg, so I was pretty disappointed to have mis-measured the Banks 5 Island. I guess I could have made two Noggs.

Still, the Batavia Arrack in the Banks 5 Island gave this version of Egg Nogg a lot of character, for better or for worse.

Regarding safety: As with any recipe containing uncooked eggs, there is some small chance of salmonella. If that risk bothers you, use pasteurized eggs.

This post is one in a series documenting my ongoing effort to make all of the drinks in the Savoy Cocktail Book, starting at the first, Abbey, and ending at the last, the, uh, Sauterne Cup.

BOTW–Ale Flip

Ale Flip
Put on the fire in a saucepan one quart of Ale (16 oz Speedway Stout), and let it boil; have ready the whites of two eggs and the yolks of four (er, one egg separated, yolk beaten with 1 teaspoon of caster sugar, and the white beaten to soft peaks), well beaten up separately; add them by degrees to four tablespoonsful of moist sugar, and half a nutmeg grated. When all are well mixed, pour on the boiling Ale by degrees, beating up the mixture continually; then pour it rapidly backward and forward from one jug to another, keeping one jug raised high above the other; till the flip is smooth and finely frothed.

Note: This is a good remedy to take at the commencement of a cold.

The last time I made this, thinking I would make it with a Traditional London Ale, I tried it with Fuller’s London Pride Ale and it was pretty dreadful.

While contemplating making the Ale Flip again, I trying to think of some way to salvage the drink, and it occurred to me that this very old drink was likely made with a beer which was to a certain extent sour, as fermentation with wild yeast was much more common in the time previous to the industrialization of beer production and a better understanding of what exactly yeast is.

However, that would have required me to purchase more beer, and Mrs. Flannestad has lately complaining about the slight build up of undrunk Stouts and Porters in the house. She does not generally enjoy that style of beer, so I only ever drink them on my own.

Anyway, a while back we got this Speedway Stout, and I thought instead of buying some sour beer, I’d try the Ale Flip with Stout. My reasoning went something like Flip->Eggs->Breakfast->Coffee->Espresso Stout!

AleSmith Speedway Stout

A HUGE Imperial Stout that weighs in at an impressive 12% ABV! As if that’s not enough, we added pounds of coffee for a little extra kick….Jet Black, with an off-white head. Starts with a strong coffee and dark chocolate sensation, then fades to a multitude of toasty, roasty and caramel malt flavors. Clean and crisp, full- bodied. Warmth from the high alcohol content lightens up the feel.

And my am I glad I did. I may not have enjoyed this drink with London Pride, but there is absolutely nothing wrong with an Spiced Warm Whipped Espresso Stout Custard, essentially what this drink is. In fact, I enjoyed it so, I was kind of bummed when I ran out of flip and had to drink the rest of the beer all on its own.

Just don’t ask us to make this for you during the next Savoy Night at Alembic Bar, as the bartender may react strongly after they read the bizarre recipe.

Though, hm, if we warmed the beer with the wand on the espresso machine, whipped the eggs with the little cream whipping wand, it might not be too bad.

Well, anyway, order it at your own risk. It certainly is a drink which gives you a good amount of respect for what was going on in the 19th Century, (well more like 15th-18th,) Century Tavern.

This post is one in a series documenting my ongoing effort to make all of the drinks in the Savoy Cocktail Book, starting at the first, Abbey, and ending at the last, the, uh, Sauterne Cup.

Flip

Flips.

The Flip, particularly the variety made with Rum, is renowned as an old-fashioned drink of great popularity among sailors. It is usually made in the following manner:

Rum Flip

1 Egg. (1 whole Egg)
1/2 Tablespoon of Powdered Sugar. (Generous teaspoon Caster Sugar)
1 Glass of Rum (2 oz Ron de Jeremy), Brandy, Port Wine, Sherry, or Whisky.

Shake well and strain into medium size glass. Grate a little nutmeg on top. In cold weather a dash of Jamaica Ginger can be added.

Well, that was, as they say, a bit of a “clusterbleep”. Bizarre enunciation, flying ice cubes, running out of space on camera memory card, even forgetting to take a picture before sampling the drink. Sheesh.

Well, narration was an experiment, and considering drinking is involved, it’s kind of amazing this sort of thing doesn’t happen more often. Well, anyway…

The Flip, along with the Toddy, is a very old style drink which can be served hot or cold. The most basic form of the flip is nothing more than a Toddy with a whole egg added, shaken up, and strained. Like the Toddy, pretty much any form of alcoholic beverage can be used as a base, from Beer to Whiskey to Sherry.

Some delicious modern variations on the Flip include those based on Amaros, (Kirk Estopinal’s Cynar Flip comes immediately to mind,) and those flips based on Spirits which hadn’t really come to light in the 19th Century, like Tequila or Mezcal.

Regarding the Rum, apparently some Finns were sitting in a bar, joking around about how the Spanish word for Rum is Ron. Riffing on Rum names like Ron de Barrilito, Ron Abuelo, and Ron Zacapa, they cracked themselves up with an idea to name a Rum after 1970s Porn star Ron Jeremy. “Dude, Ron de Jeremy! How cool would that be!? F-Yeah! High Five, Bro! Rock on, let’s do it!” Or whatever the Finnish equivalent of that exchange might be.

Also, apparently with some money to burn, they called up Mr. Jeremy’s people with the idea, and he agreed. So, yes, this Rum, from the aptly named One Eyed Spirits, is named after Ron Jeremy. I guess the nice part, especially for a rum that appears to come in a container intended for urine samples or glucose supplements, is that it isn’t bad. It’s got enough character to stand up in a simple drink like this flip. I doubt it will find a place in my liquor cabinet, but I wouldn’t kick it out of bed.

Regarding safety: Clearly, holding ice cubes in your hand and cracking them with a 6 inch chef’s knife isn’t really, uh, wise? Don’t do that. Or if you do, don’t say you saw me do it here. You can, however, blame Andrew Bohrer, who showed me this technique. Also, as with any recipe containing uncooked eggs, there is some small chance of salmonella. If that risk bothers you, use pasteurized eggs.

Music in the background is from the excellent new Mountain Goats album, “All Eternals Deck”.

This post is one in a series documenting my ongoing effort to make all of the drinks in the Savoy Cocktail Book, starting at the first, Abbey, and ending at the last, the, uh, Sauterne Cup.

Egg Sour

First, just a reminder that Sunday, April 24, 2011, is our monthly exercise in folly, Savoy Cocktail Book Night at Alembic Bar. If any of the cocktails on this blog have captured your fancy, stop by after 6 and allow the skilled bartenders (and me) to make them for you. It is always a fun time.

Egg Sour
1 Teaspoonful of Powdered White Sugar. (I skipped the extra sugar)
3 Dashes of Lemon Juice. (Very generous 3 dashes Lemon Juice. OK, really the juice of 1/2 small lemon, about 1/2 oz)
1 Liqueur Glass of Curacao. (1 1/2 oz Clement Liqueur Creole Shrubb)
1 Liqueur Glass of Brandy. (1/2 oz Germain-Robin Craft Method Brandy, 1/2 oz Germain-Robin Coast Road Reserve Brandy, 1/2 oz Osocalis Alambic Brandy)
1 Egg. (1/2 large egg)
2 or 3 small Lumps of ice.
Shake well and remove the ice before serving. (Garnish with drops of Angostura Bitters.)

Right, I couldn’t even make a whole drink by combining 2 of the comically small, yet delicious, Brandy samples sent to me by Germain-Robin. I had to throw in a little Osocalis, sorry about that Germain-Robin. I understand smaller distilleries must struggle with sample requests, but how about enough to wet your tongue?

I couldn’t see the need for any extra sugar in a drink that is already half “Curacao” and only has “3 dashes Lemon Juice”. It certainly wouldn’t qualify as “Sour” if made to those specifications.

We only had “Extra Large” eggs at the moment, so using a whole egg seemed a little excessive.

On the whole, this is a tasty Egg Sour, I liked this drink quite a bit. I would definitely make it again for myself or even for a customer.

A lot of times, I find modern cocktail mixers will throw Lemon Juice into Flips, even though drinks in the “Flip” category traditionally contain no Citrus. I guess, thinking about it, what they’re making are Egg Sours for their customers. Tasty, but not a Flip.

This post is one in a series documenting my ongoing effort to make all of the drinks in the Savoy Cocktail Book, starting at the first, Abbey, and ending at the last, the, uh, Sauterne Cup.