Egg Sour

First, just a reminder that Sunday, April 24, 2011, is our monthly exercise in folly, Savoy Cocktail Book Night at Alembic Bar. If any of the cocktails on this blog have captured your fancy, stop by after 6 and allow the skilled bartenders (and me) to make them for you. It is always a fun time.

Egg Sour
1 Teaspoonful of Powdered White Sugar. (I skipped the extra sugar)
3 Dashes of Lemon Juice. (Very generous 3 dashes Lemon Juice. OK, really the juice of 1/2 small lemon, about 1/2 oz)
1 Liqueur Glass of Curacao. (1 1/2 oz Clement Liqueur Creole Shrubb)
1 Liqueur Glass of Brandy. (1/2 oz Germain-Robin Craft Method Brandy, 1/2 oz Germain-Robin Coast Road Reserve Brandy, 1/2 oz Osocalis Alambic Brandy)
1 Egg. (1/2 large egg)
2 or 3 small Lumps of ice.
Shake well and remove the ice before serving. (Garnish with drops of Angostura Bitters.)

Right, I couldn’t even make a whole drink by combining 2 of the comically small, yet delicious, Brandy samples sent to me by Germain-Robin. I had to throw in a little Osocalis, sorry about that Germain-Robin. I understand smaller distilleries must struggle with sample requests, but how about enough to wet your tongue?

I couldn’t see the need for any extra sugar in a drink that is already half “Curacao” and only has “3 dashes Lemon Juice”. It certainly wouldn’t qualify as “Sour” if made to those specifications.

We only had “Extra Large” eggs at the moment, so using a whole egg seemed a little excessive.

On the whole, this is a tasty Egg Sour, I liked this drink quite a bit. I would definitely make it again for myself or even for a customer.

A lot of times, I find modern cocktail mixers will throw Lemon Juice into Flips, even though drinks in the “Flip” category traditionally contain no Citrus. I guess, thinking about it, what they’re making are Egg Sours for their customers. Tasty, but not a Flip.

This post is one in a series documenting my ongoing effort to make all of the drinks in the Savoy Cocktail Book, starting at the first, Abbey, and ending at the last, the, uh, Sauterne Cup.

Sour

Sours.
A Sour is usually prepared from the following recipe :

Sour.
The Juice of 1/2 Lemon.
1/2 Tablespoonful of Sugar. (I recommend using superfine, bar, or caster sugar when making drinks like this or the Daiquiri. If you don’t have any of those, just run your regular granulated sugar in your blender or food processor until it is pulverized nicely.)
Add 1 Glass of Spirit or Liqueur as fancy dictates, Gin, Whisky, Brandy, Rum, Calvados, etc.
Shake well and strain into medium size glass. One squirt of Soda water. Add one slice orange and a cherry.

So, “fancy” dictated to me, that I use St. George Spirits‘s Agricole-style R(h)um, Agua Libre for this sour!

I get into all sorts of discussions about the simplest drinks with my bar geeky friends. As far as I am concerned a “Sour” is: Spirits, Lemon (or Lime), and Sugar (or Simple Syrup). But I have gotten into heated discussions about whether the Egg White, which I consider an optional ingredient, is required.

The most common other optional ingredient is Egg Whites, which are required in certain Sours like the Boston Sour or Pisco Sour. Beyond that, you’re going to need another name. One of my favorite is the New York Sour, which includes a float of red wine on top of a traditional Whiskey Sour. Even more esoteric versions of the sour class of drinks are those like the Los Angeles Cocktail: a Whiskey Sour with egg white, which splits the sweetener with Italian Vermouth; and the Elk’s Own Cocktail: a Whiskey sour with egg white which splits the sweetener with Port Wine.

It is fun though, that the Savoy Cocktail book says, “Add 1 Glass of Spirit or Liqueur as fancy dictates.” So is a Fernet Branca Sour out of the question? What about an Elderflower Sour? Where does the sour stop and the Cocktail begin? Is it the moment you sub out the sweetener for something flavored? But if it is an actual “liqueur” sour, what is that?

My usual “Sour” recipe is 2 oz Spirit, 3/4 oz Lemon (or lime), and 1 oz of 1-1 simple syrup. I find it pleases just about everyone, unless they are among the 1 percent of drinkers who have a tweaked palates and truly prefer the aesthetic of actually “sour” drinks. This was far more spirit forward and light on sweetener and citrus than that recipe. I guess when you have a spirit you want to feature, like the St. George Agua Libre, this would be the way to go. However, I would also say this spirit forward, lightly sour formulation won’t be a crowd pleaser among 99% of modern drinkers. There’s also a pretty good chance they will be disappointed in the volume of this drink, especially if you’re pouring it into one of those giganto fishbowl cocktail glasses which are so popular these days.

One thing which is interesting is the use of superfine sugar instead of 1-1 sugar syrup (aka Simple) as a sweetener. On the sweetener front, this isn’t a big deal, but on the dilution front it may be. If you are using 1 oz of 1-1 syrup to balance your 3/4 oz of citrus, you are also adding approximately a half ounce of extra water to your drink. Though, in this case, the “squirt of soda” is a nice way to lighten the drink to the same place it would be if you were using simple syrup and add a touch of effervescence.

Music in the video from the new Lucinda Williams CD, “Blessed”. (Yes, I still buy CDs.)

This post is one in a series documenting my ongoing effort to make all of the drinks in the Savoy Cocktail Book, starting at the first, Abbey, and ending at the last, the, uh, Sauterne Cup.