BOTW–Magnolia Gastropub & Brewery

The remodeling of the Magnolia Pub & Brewery into the Magnolia Gastropub & Brewery has not been without controversy.

Some feel the new look of the brew pub disconnects it from the funky Upper Haight neighborhood it is located in. They are disappointed that the murals featuring psychedelic landscapes and Jerry Garcia are gone.

To check out the damage and/or improvements, Mrs. Underhill and I stopped by for an early dinner yesterday evening.

The new look is cleaner and more bare bones. As owner David McLean points out on his blog, Haight & Masonic, “There are a lot of period details (tile floor, woodwork, exterior tile) from the 1920’s, when the space went from grocery store to pharmacy.” The space does feature these details much more effectively than the it previously had.

If you’re familiar with Magnolia’s sister pub up Alembic, up the street, the new look really won’t be much of a surprise. Dark wood, tile, bare light bulbs and vintage fixtures. It’s of a piece. The booths have finally been upholstered, which, in my opinion, is a huge improvement over the previous uncomfortable bare wood.

The organization of the space has not been changed much. The bar, booths, and tables are still in the same place, albeit now stained instead of painted. The only big change was the addition of a big shared table for communal eating and drinking in the bar area. I guess this is now de rigueur for modern restaurants.

To me, the new menu has sort of split the difference between the old magnolia and the, “comically small and comically expensive,” (as one friend described it,) dishes at Alembic. We had a very nice salad of arugula and sliced radishes served with toast spread with herbed goat cheese. The calamari was a bit less successful. I’m not sure whose idea coloring the aoli with squid ink was, but trendy as the idea might be, blue-black aoli is just not appealing. Maybe at Halloween. For mains, we tried a pork sausage with two sides and the pork ribs. The sausage was delicious as were the greens and roasted beets which accompanied it. The pork ribs were good, but not quite to the fork tender delicious stage they should have been at, nor was the sauce which covered them particularly notable. Single notedly sweet. The rancho gordo white beans which accompanied them, were also a little on the underdone side. Tasty, though. We did not, however, find portion sizes anywhere near, “comically small.” If anything, the pork rib portion wass comically large. The several rib pieces were so large, there was no way I was going to be able to finish them. Anyway, as Magnolia is only on their third day open with this new menu, I’m sure these glitches will be corrected as they continue to “truck” on.

Prices aren’t ridiculous. I think, at $18, the pork dish is one of the more expensive on the menu. Most entrees fall in the $10-15 range. Not cheap, but not as expensive as many places seem to be these days.

The beer is the same wonderful beer Magnolia has ever had. When folks ask me about Magnolia Beer, I always describe it as, “really good home brew.” We sampled the New Speedway Bitter on cask and Blue Bell Bitter along with the Saison. Both the Blue Bell and New Speedway were quite delicious. The spice was a bit heavy in the Saison, at least to our tastes.

If you’re in the Upper Haight, and enjoy beer, I certainly recommend stopping by and making up your own mind about Magnolia Gastropub & Brewery’s new look and menu.

5 thoughts on “BOTW–Magnolia Gastropub & Brewery

  1. I had a fine brunch there when I was in SF in April: two beautiful slabs of pork belly, cooked perfectly tender and the top layer of fat broiled under the salamander to a wonderful (almost) toasted-marshmallow-like crust. My only regret was that I had too much to accomplish in the afternoon and could not have a pint or three.

  2. Wow, that sounds good.

    I think the people behind the kitchen were the same in April, as they are now. They also do the menu at Alembic. They’re definitely into charcuterie and offal as I’ve seen sweetbreads and bone marrow more than once on the special board at Alembic.

  3. Well, I don’t know what to say about overpriced food in San Francisco.

    I mean, take the Epic Roast House $25 burger… Or don’t. I know I won’t unless someone else is paying.

    I’ve been in to Magnolia a couple times and always enjoyed the food. I’ve certainly paid more for food I’ve enjoyed less.

    Remains to be seen if this sort of upscale priced food is the right thing to do at a brew pub.

    It’s certainly no more expensive than Monk’s Kettle or the Rogue Public House and the food is a step above either.

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